Hard though it may be to believe, there is a part of Venice which is even more crowded than the narrow lanes of San Marco. We would not wish the Rialto on a hot summer day on anyone, and those who brave the tourist crowds to ride the vaporetti (water buses) along the Canal Grande sometimes deserve medals for their tenacity. Elsewhere across the city, tourists jostle for position on quaysides that were designed for princes or for crusaders. But there is another Venice.