hidden europe 7

Through foreign eyes: Fürst Pückler in England

by Nicky Gardner

Summary

a German aristocrat in search of a bride finds that London offers some of best value accommodation in Britain! Nineteenth century England through the eyes of a foreign traveller.

Images of places are often sculpted by foreign travellers. Can we think of Ravenna without seeing it through Byron's eyes? And is not the Andalucía of the mind as much shaped by writers like Gerald Brenan and Laurie Lee as it is by the everyday reality of the place. Both Lee and Brenan unwittingly constructed a heady mythology of gypsies, flamenco, brigands and orange groves that captured the imagination of English speakers and remains even today a potent and positive image for modern Andalucía.

Of course, these things are not all about mythology. The mid nineteenth century French poet, essayist and travel writer, Théophile Gautier, who wrote splendid accounts of his travels to Russia, Spain and elsewhere, has a knack of really capturing the essence of a place, whether it be the "serene melancholy" of the Alhambra in Granada, or coming "face to face with the spectre of civilisation" in Gibraltar.

But what of England?

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Conflicts of interest: Mining and World Heritage

UNESCO's World Heritage List includes many citations which showcase former mining activities. The extractive industries have led to the development of some of Europe's most distinctive cultural landscapes. But the recent addition of a gold mining site in Romania to the list sparks tensions between conservation and economic interests.

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The lost kingdom

A 1924 essay by Joseph Roth on an unsung railway station in Berlin fired our imagination and inspired us to take the train to Gleisdreieck - an elevated station that in Roth's day looked down on a tangled maze of railway lines and sidings. Nowadays, nature is reclaiming the industrial landscapes of yesteryear.

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Lost at sea: a Frisian tale

There are two sides to Sylt. The east has soggy edges as tidal flats and salt marshes separate Sylt from the German and Danish mainland. The other side can be wild and treacherous, a place where shrapnel spray pounds the beach and bodies are washed ashore.