Ancient trading ports, places with harbours that have been sidelined by history, are wonderful spots to wander for a day or two. Iskenderun is just such a port. Set in that little corner of Turkey that nudges down between northern Syria and the Mediterranean, Iskenderun, formerly known as Alexandretta, was for centuries a linchpin of Levantine trade. Ships came from near and far, their crews always a little fearful as to what diseases might befall them - for the malaria ridden marshes around the port had what the Victorian novelist William Ainsworth referred to as "a melancholic celebrity".