Most modern travellers intent on exploring the coastline of Montenegro so extolled by Byron will head, in the main, for the Bay of Kotor or for the sweep of resorts from Budva down to Sveti Stefan. But for those willing to venture a little further south down the Montenegro coast, there is, in the small town of Ulcinj, a chance to find something more offbeat.
Drive south through the olive groves, ignoring the industrial ferry port of Bar, and make for Montenegro's southernmost town.